By Sean O’Shea

One of the biggest messages out there in dog training is the one about a tired dog being a good dog. The premise is, that if you’ll just find a way to tucker your dog out consistently, he’ll be happy, well-behaved, and chill. Your job is to find out how to exercise him or her enough to create this magic.

But here’s the rub. How would you, the human, go about becoming more athletic, having more stamina, more go-go juice, more endurance? You know the answer. It’s an easy one. You’d workout. Consistently. Every day you’d push yourself, and every day you’d either maintain or increase your athletic abilities. Would you be tired post-workout? Sure. Of course. But after a little rest you’d be stronger, faster, and more resilient. And because exercise is addicting, because it releases so many pleasurable hormones, you’d be dying to go tomorrow!!

It’s the same for our dogs. We exercise them like crazy, teach them to just go, go, go, and then we wonder why they’re movement/action/adrenaline junkies. We turn them into super athletes who NEED the fix daily. But even with the fix, they’re still crazy and ill-behaved – just not for the hour post-action.

Of course we, and our dogs need exercise, release, fun, activity etc., and we should all make sure to provide that for ourselves and our dogs. It’s a big part of being healthy. But it’s not the only part! Just like we need the other side of the coin -the calm, the focused, the relaxed – so do our dogs. Our dogs need a balance. They need the go and the slow. The on switch, and the off switch.

And just like we can cultivate super athlete dogs, we can also cultivate relaxed dogs. We can cultivate and condition our dogs to be relaxed and calm through certain kinds of training and lifestyle. But most owners (and trainers) seem to forget this essential piece of the puzzle.

If you were looking to learn how to slow your hyper-mind down, if you were looking to learn how to relax, if you were looking to learn how to be calm and chilled, you wouldn’t expect exercise to be your only answer. No. You’d work on quiet activities – like reading, meditation, something creative, a quiet walk, downtime, rest. Of course this isn’t a perfect parallel for our dogs; they can’t do all the stuff we can, but they can do their own versions of it. And they can reap similar rewards.

Some simple suggestions would be:

-Slow your walk with your dog. (If it’s a slow, structured heel it will work the brain far more than a speedy walk. Remember, slow is hard for dogs, fast is easy.)

-Teach duration “place” or “down” commands. (Few things will transform your dog’s behavior as dramatically as duration work. We call this doggie meditation for a reason. It slows the mind, and teaches dogs to learn to ignore the myriad stimuli that are going on all around them – and which they usually react to. This helps condition a calm, peaceful dog.)

-Teach your dog to be able to manage its energy when playing. (Develop an “on/off” switch by utilizing action then dead-stop inaction. Play fetch or tug and after a few reps ask for a long down and walk away, move around, and then restart. This teaches your dog to learn to manage him or herself even when energy gets flowing – and that the play and action can stop at any moment.)

-Only allow access to what your dog wants when calm behaviors are offered. (Crate rushing, threshold rushing, car door rushing, food rushing etc. All these are examples of opportunities to teach calm gets what you desire, thus conditioning more calm choices.)

-Correct any unwanted, over the top behavior. (It’s up to you to teach your dog what is and what isn’t acceptable behavior. Stopping monkey business – think jumping on and off furniture, running around the house, jumping on people, barking at you or anything, mouthing etc – and overly aroused behavior will give your dog access to better choices.)

-Slow yourself down! (Our dogs will definitely mirror us, and if we’re constantly on-edge, agitated, moving fast, anxious, and stressed, we’re far more likely to see similar stuff from them. If you’ll provide a more calm, conscious, chilled out you, you’ll have much better chance of getting more of this from your dog.)

The main point here is that exercise alone won’t give you the dog you want. It won’t create a well-behaved, calm, respectful, relaxed dog. But the appropriate balance of exercise, structure, rules, and actually conditioning slower, calmer behavior will.


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By Sean O’Shea

What’s the hardest thing for both owners and trainers? It’s the power of association, emotional habits, perceptions, and feelings. All the stuff owners have accidentally or inadvertently created between their dogs, themselves, and their environments.

Watching well-trained, calm, and obedient dogs literally become different animals – reactive, aggressive, crazed, freaked out, incapable of listening etc – right before your eyes as the owner enters the room, grabs the leash, or returns the dog home is something that never ceases to amaze and confound.

It’s the one thing we can’t control. Even with owners doing their homework, having the tools and commands down pat, and showing up ready to change it all, it’s still the wildcard in play. For many dogs it’s a seamless transition – they jump right into the new game. For others, it’s a totally different story. These dogs are so affected by the relationship/associations/feelings they have with their owners that their minds and nervous systems simply meltdown.

They are so aroused, excited, overwhelmed, over-stimulated, and most of all, reconnected to their past feelings (dependency, guarding, fear, anxiety, excitement, possessiveness etc) that they’re completely different dogs. They don’t respond to commands. They don’t care about the tools. They react when they didn’t react. They explode when they previously didn’t care. The just-minutes-ago calm, and well mannered dog, disappears in an instant! They actually engage in physical ticks and behaviors (rolling on the ground, scratching, licking, spinning, whining etc) to try to channel out some of this toxic remembrance and association.

This is the power of relationship and association. Dogs not only get into behavioral patterns, they also get into emotional, and physiological (secretions of stress hormones) patterns. They actually feel emotionally different, and physically different around their owners and environments. To be successful with these guys, it’s not just about training new behaviors and habits, no, we’re talking about needing to actually reprogram the emotions and the body of these dogs.

To be successful, these dogs need to actually FEEL different in their owner’s presence and in their home environments. And this is the Mt Everest that these owners have to climb, if they want their dogs to be safe, polite, relaxed, and well-behaved. These owners have work ahead of them that many aren’t going to be down for, simply because it’s too hard, too exhausting, and takes too much perseverance. It’s not your usual dog training hand over, it’s something totally different. It’s human and dog reboot time. World Series version.

This was me with my two dogs, Oakley and Junior. It took me fighting and wanting it so bad, for over a year and a half to get them to finally reset. We had SO many negative, toxic associations and feelings, that the only fix was tons of time and tons of effort. Daily battle, of me wanting this and being unwilling to give it up unrealized. It was messy, and it was far from pretty, but we got there. Finally.

For other owners who find themselves in this position, I can tell you that what you want is definitely possible, but I can also assure that it can be an incredibly hard, and long road. And only those who want it bad enough to go out day after day and earn back a new relationship, create new associations, and develop new feelings will get it. It will be hard, it will be uncomfortable, it will often feel hopeless, and it might even be embarrassing, but that’s the required exchange if you find you and your dog in this predicament, and you want to find your way back out.

P.S. Yes this is about training, tools, commands, rules, structure, and accountability, but even more so it’s about the inner resolve to become the person you need to be daily, in every moment, to create these lasting changes in your dog’s perception of you.


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By Sean O’Shea

So much of what we see with problem dogs and their behavior, is that people have unintentionally reinforced and encouraged the wrong stuff. And of course, none of us want to intentionally mess up our dogs (even though many of us – including your’s truly have). So here’s a little list of reminders that we’ll call the “don’t do”, or “watch out for” list. Keeping these in mind, and doing your very best to avoid these common dog/owner traps will go a long way towards you having a great relationship, and enjoyable life with your dog.

-Trying to love a badly behaved dog better. (Guaranteed to make a bad dog worse)

-Coddling, nurturing, babying an insecure, nervous dog. (The very best way to deepen insecurity, and to ensure a neurotic mess of a dog)

-Allowing a dog to have constant access to you and your personal space – following you everywhere, jumping in your lap uninvited, always needing to be near. (The perfect recipe for separation anxiety and possessiveness)

-Constantly petting a dog. (The very best way to create a dependent, nervous, entitled, bratty, separation anxiety dog)

-Ignoring bad behavior – jumping, whining, barking, fence fighting, growling etc. – in the hopes it will go away. (It never does, it only gets worse)

-Using your dog to fill emotional gaps in your life. (The most common reason for neurotic, unstable dog behavior)

-Not enforcing rules because they feel bad. (A selfish act that ensures your dog will not have access to the rules and leadership it needs to thrive and be balanced)

-Letting dogs be “dogs” – thinking/rationalizing that growling, protective behavior, resource guarding, reactivity etc. is normal/acceptable. (This excuses unacceptable/unhealthy behavior by calling it “normal” and allows it to continue/increase)

-Being inconsistent. (Teaches dogs rules and boundaries are always negotiable, and ensures they will be negotiated)

-Accidentally rewarding whining/barking/growling by petting/talking to/letting in or out of a door/crate. (Teaches dogs that those behaviors get them what they want, and ensures you’ll see a whole lot more of them)

-Spoiling/allowing bad behavior due to guilt. (Feeling guilty about working long hours/being away from home for long periods and trying to assuage that guilt by spoiling the dog/being permissive/allowing bad behavior to occur to make ourselves feel better. Unfortunately it only makes your dog feel/behave worse)

-Letting stressed, pulling, anxious, worked up dogs meet on-leash. (This is a common scene that can create dog reactivity and even dog fights)

-Letting dogs pull to trees or bushes on walks. (Teaches dogs that pushiness gets them what they want)

-Touching, talking to, “enjoying” a dog who jumps on you. (Reinforces jumping and guarantees more jumping)

-Letting dogs “work it out” on their own (Old school approach to “ ocializing” dogs that is a great way for creating dog fights and never ending tension/grudges between dogs that live together)

-Giving treats or petting a growling/barking/anxious/stressed dog to calm and soothe them. (A very common mistake that does the exact opposite of making it better. It always makes the behavior worse, by reinforcing it)

-Sharing only your soft, sweet, loving, affectionate side. (This is akin to only saying yes and cuddling your child, and never saying no or enforcing rules. It leaves dogs feeling alone and unsure about who’s in charge, nervous, anxious, stressed, and out of control – just like it would kids)

-Using tools that allow dogs to ignore you and the tool. (The wrong tools – harnesses, flat collars, flex leases etc – can actually empower the dog to misbehave and disempower you from communicating with your dog)

-Using tools that allow/encourage the dog to behave worse. (See above!)

-Seeing freedom, love, and affection as more vital to your dog’s well-being than structure, rules, guidance. (This is a common mistake, born out of either our desire to nurture, our desire to fulfill ourselves, or not understanding that dogs need guidance and leadership at least as much as they do “love”. It’s also the best way to truly mess up a dog)

-Thinking exercise and activity create calm, relaxed dogs on their own. (This is a huge misconception. exercising a dog to try to make it calm is futile and limited benefit endeavor. The best approach is both exercise AND teaching the dog to be conditioned to be calm through training)

-Wanting to be your dog’s best friend before having become his leader. (Trying to create a heathy relationship through love, play, and friendship without first creating respect, rules, and boundaries is a first-class ticket to problem dog city! First impressions are as important to dogs as they are to people, and trying to fix negative first impressions is just as formidable)

-Thinking dogs just want to please you. (Like all the rest of us, dogs want to please themselves first and foremost. If you’ll look hard enough you’ll see the benefit for them in whatever they’re doing to please you. Understanding this is essential to living well with dogs)

-Not sharing valuable consequences for bad behavior. (The most common way owners allow negative behaviors to continue and flourish! It is only through clear, valuable consequences for their choices and actions that dog behavior changes and improves)

-Being afraid that consequences and discipline will ruin your relationship. (A common misconception. The truth is, the exact opposite; you’ll create a much healthier, respectful, balanced, and enjoyable relationship by sharing clear boundaries and rules consistently. Your dog will be happier and enjoy you far more if you’ll be a good leader)

-Letting love blind you to your dog’s actual needs. (So many of us are so desperate to connect and love and nurture that we’ll forgo sharing what actually makes our dogs happy, balanced, and comfortable. This is a selfish act, based on our needs, not our dogs.)

-Letting your needs blind you to your dog’s actual needs. (So many of us struggle to connect, feel safe, engage in love within the human world, or are just overwhelmed, overworked and lean on our dogs for love, support, nurturing, in a world where we aren’t able to receive the same support and nurturing from our own kind. When our dogs represent so much more than just being our dogs, it can become next to impossible to share the leadership, discipline, structure, rules, and accountability they need to thrive)

Of course there’s always more, but this is a pretty good place to start to get a better handle on you and your dog’s relationship. And if you’re having any issues, chances are awfully good that you’ll find the cause right here in this post.



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By Sean O’Shea

One of the greatest challenges for dog owners post-training is fighting…the slippery slope.

Your dog comes back to you and he’s like a new guy. He’s well-mannered, he doesn’t do the old stuff that drove you crazy, his commands are spot-on, and he’s just kinda amazing overall. You rejoice!

But then the slippery slope slips up on you. The slippery slope is all about the slow, almost unnoticeable return to regular life. The slow return of old habit patterns. The loss of focus. Perhaps taking the easy (or lazy!) route instead of doing what you know you should. And especially letting little, teeny, tiny moments – the ones that seem totally inconsequential – get away from you. This is how all the great work you paid for starts to come undone. Drip by drip. Teeny moment missed by teeny moment missed.

It almost never happens in some big and obvious fashion. That would be easy to see and address (and most of us wouldn’t let ourselves off the hook for the easy and obvious). But  because all these moments seem so small, innocuous, and are maybe even hard to see, we start to slip.

And so slowly, drip by drip you start to lose that new and awesome dog you got back.

Owners slip back into real life and are distracted. Owners are amazed that their dog is SO much better that they allow some little things because the good-to-bad ratio is so improved. Owners haven’t been educated on how important the small moments are and how to effectively address them. Owners aren’t truly prepared to change their habits and lifestyle. Owners feel bad about the rules, structure, accountability. It’s a ton of work.

But here’s the thing, the way your trainer made all this crazy progress, the way they delivered you a totally new and improved dog, was precisely through addressing all the small moments and understanding how valuable they are. By not being distracted when the dog was out with them. By focusing and addressing issues the moment they occurred. By seeing what your dog was capable of and continually asking for more, rather than less. By not feeling bad about sharing the stuff that makes your dog feel more comfortable, happy, safe, and fun to be around. And by being willing to do the work. Lots of it.

I get it, it’s hard. Really hard. Especially if you have the luxury of owning a dog who leans more to the troubled side of life. But like everything else in life, there are no shortcuts. No cheating. Not if you want the good stuff.

The good news is, the slippery slope can totally be avoided. With some new disciplines and some mental shifts you can totally keep the awesome dog that came back to you, but it’s going to require oodles of work. Like, serious oodles. We always tell our clients that the hard work starts when the the dog goes home. Not that we haven’t done our job, we have, but that’s easy. It’s our job. The real challenge is for everyday people – people who aren’t dog trainers, people with tons of other important things going on in their busy lives – to prioritize and make both the mental effort as well as the physical effort to ward off the slippery slope. To do all the necessary stuff to maintain this awesomeness your dog came back with.

Like all life stuff, it comes down to how bad you want it? Will you make the time? Will you prioritize the work? Will you maintain focus? Will you train yourself to be a deputy dog trainer? Is it important enough to you? It’s like eating right, working out, saving money, doing a great job at work, and maintaining awesome relationships – they all take sacrifice, self-improvement, and continued hard work. But they all also pay off some handsome rewards.


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By Sean O’Shea

Ok, so here’s an interesting thought. What if even without any actual “training” – meaning all the usual sit, down, place, heel, recall etc., and without any fancy tools – you could still massively impact your dog’s behavior and state of mind? What if by simply NOT doing or allowing certain things you could make some great stuff happen?Well, the good news is, half of our success as trainers isn’t even in the actual “training” we do. A lot of it is simply in all the stuff we don’t do or don’t allow.

Here’s a quick list to help your dog and yourself get to a better space:

-Cut back on the unearned affection. Play hard to get. Only reward awesome choices and states of mind – not just existence or demand. Remove the unconscious, incessant petting and stroking. Make your dog work for his/her interactions. Become aware that unearned affection is one of the NUMBER ONE CAUSES for poor behavior. That it often creates wound up, edgy, entitled, bratty, neurotic, dependent, guarding, possessive dogs. And don’t forget about heavy-duty separation anxiety.

-Don’t allow disrespectful space invasions. This includes jumping on you, pushing you out of the way at thresholds, jumping on your lap uninvited etc. Instead, claim your space by using your body – not to hit or harm – but to have a calm, quiet conversation with your dog that your space is valuable and needs to be respected. For jumping you can do this by placing your knee forward when your dog jumps, so that he gets your knee and not you, and so jumping is not rewarding. At thresholds simply block with your body and then walk confidently INTO your dog’s space (and your dog if need be) to move them back. As for jumping on your lap uninvited, simply say “no” and stand up when your dog jumps on you. This will remove him from your space and make this not rewarding. Then remove your dog from the couch. (Bonus points for initially keeping a bubble of space – say 10 feet – around you so your dog works on being more independent and less clingy.)
-Don’t allow or reward demanding behavior. If your dog is barking at you for attention, for food, to play, to get access to a door, or to get out of the crate, don’t reward the behavior with what the dog is looking for. Say “no” and ignore the behavior. If your dog demands something and you respond you’ve just taught your dog what works to get what he wants. Be careful not to unconsciously reward/allow this.
-Make your dog wait. Simply make your dog wait at moments of excitement or intensity. This could be feeding time, at thresholds, going in or out of the car etc. By teaching your dog to wait for permission from you you teach impulse control, respect, and to look for permission rather than be on auto-pilot. Conversely, by allowing impulsive behavior you teach your dog to ignore/disrespect you, to be impulsive, and that intensity and excitement gets him what he wants.

-Don’t baby, console, pet, nurture, smother nervous, insecure, frightened dogs. This will only make them worse. Instead, treat them like normal dogs by asking more of them, challenging them to get out of their comfort zones, give them a firm human to lean on, not a soft one to feel alone/frightened with. (This is a super hard one for most, due to our desire to nurture and help, but the truth is, this behavior is responsible for creating so many completely dysfunctional dogs.)

-Don’t lean on your dog emotionally. One of the biggest advantages trainers have is being in an emotionally neutral space when interacting. For many owners, their dogs have become their place of solace in a world they often feel unfulfilled or unsafe in. This neediness presents you in a weak state that will cause pushy dogs to be more pushy and nervous/insecure dogs to become more nervous. For either mindset, the outcome is often the development of protective or aggressive or reactive behavior. By treating your dog like a dog – in the very best and positive sense of the phrase – you’ll set you and your dog up to be in a much more balanced space.

Once again, this is all the non-“training” stuff you can do that will help your dog’s behavior tremendously. Just being aware and acting on these simple recommendations can change things DRAMATICALLY!!

So even if you’re not going to do any actual obedience work and teach commands, you can still make some MAJOR changes simply by first doing no harm.

P.S. Now if you’d like to go even further and make bigger strides, change behavior more significantly, create reliability, and have a deeper, more healthy relationship with your dog, you can visit my website and watch the free do-it-yourself training videos. They’re easy to follow and will help you make some amazing stuff happen.

CONNECT WITH US ON FacebookTwitterInstagramYouTube for more training insights, tips, our free weekly Q&A Saturday, and community interaction!

Our groundbreaking do-it-yourself E-Collar training video/PDF training guide Learn to Train The Good Dog Way: E-CollarTraining is now available for order! Click HERE to order your copy!


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By Sean O’Shea

Ok, first off, I know there are some amazing substitute teachers out there, so please no angry comments from those of you who are awesome!

That said, I think most of us are familiar with the massive atmosphere shift our classroom would undergo when a substitute teacher would show up when we were in school. There was a palpable sense of relief (relief from the usual demands and accountability of our regular teacher/program), and a corresponding excitement about the perception of “looseness” and cracks in the rules that could be exploited.

Now why on earth would a classroom full of the same kids – who just yesterday were respectful, obedient, polite, deferential, and happy to work within the framework of the rules of the classroom – suddenly turn into a bunch of pushy, bratty, opportunistic wild things?

It’s simple. We’re programmed to follow believable leadership and authority, and we’re also programmed to ignore and push against non-believable leadership and authority. It’s in our survival DNA. It’s also in our opportunistic DNA. What can be taken advantage of will be taken advantage of.

The regular teacher, who has been doing the gig for years, has a sense of confidence, certainty, no hesitation, and an air of believability. Step over the bounds, act the fool, and surely consequences shall befall you. He or she exudes this vibe, and the children naturally respect it.

The substitute teacher on the other hand is a part-timer. He or she is likely far less confident and sure. Not having done this for years and years as his or her main gig, he or she hasn’t mastered the fine art of leading…of controlling the room, of being certain, of creating respect by way of presentation and confidence.

And it shows. It shows in the hesitation. It shows in the self-doubt. It shows in the trying to make friends rather than establish rules. It shows in the lack of certainty in their words and movements. It shows in the inability to confidently issue consequences. It shows in the overall energy of the substitute – and it’s this uncertainty, hesitation, and lack of confident energy the kids see. And it’s what makes the the sub vulnerable.

The kids see it, and the kids eat it up. They prey on it. And why shouldn’t they? If you’re not able to be a believable leader, you have to expect pushback. That’s the law of the jungle. Uncertain leaders get led.

And it’s the same with our dogs. We’ve all heard about the dog behaving brilliantly with the trainer and then abominably with the owner the next moment. It’s the exact same thing. The trainer is the experienced teacher. Confident, certain, not hesitating, sure of what to do and when and exactly how to do it. That confidence and certainty is obvious to the dog, and like the kids in the classroom, he or she tends to comply nicely, and most importantly, offers their best work and best selves. Like magic.

The owner on the other hand smacks of the substitute teacher. They’re part-timers. They’re uncertain about the commands, the mechanics, the timing, the sharing of consequences etc. And of course, all this uncertainty and lack of confidence is super apparent to the dog. And so he or she naturally takes advantage of what can be taken advantage of, offering far less than their best work or their best selves.

It’s the substitute teacher syndrome.

So if you’re looking to get your dog and your relationship back into a great space, you gotta get out of the substitute teacher zone. You’ve gotta become the real deal. The experienced, certain, confident teacher/leader that naturally – by way of what you’ve earned, learned and cultivated – causes your dog to behave differently. There are no shortcuts to this. Just ask the substitute teacher. You only get the awesome classroom (and the awesome dog) by putting in the continuous hard work to become the awesome leader, the certain leader, the confident leader, the believable leader.

Lots of practice and hard work is the only gateway to this promised land.


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By Sean O’Shea

One of the aspects to keeping our dogs successful (and safe) on walks is the aspect I think that is most overlooked and misunderstood as a training tool…

Space. And how it creates and/or relieves pressure. 

If there’s a crazy person loose in the state next to you, you’re probably not very worried for your own safety. If you hear he’s in your city, you’ll be more aware, but not likely freaking out yet. If you hear he’s in your neighborhood you’re going to be freaking out and likely barricading yourself in your home. If you were outside and he was walking towards you, well, that’s real PANIC TIME!!!

That’s the magic of space. Get enough space and just about anything scary is tolerable. Get too close to something unnerving and panic sets in. Sometimes all you need is a foot or two to be cool, and sometimes it’s a lot more. 

But here’s the thing, it’s not JUST space or proximity that creates the pressure cooker, it’s also observable escape routes (can we safely escape if all hell breaks loose?), and either foreknowledge of the approaching trigger (it’s that dog that always goes ape when we walk by), OR displayed behavior that is unsafe or could be unsafe (a barking, growling, pulling, lunging dog who’s owner has no control).

All these factors determine the pressure your dog (and often you) feel, and can necessitate more space to keep the pressure tolerable, and your dog successful. 

Walking in an open field by a barking dog at 10 feet might be tolerable for your dog. Walking by the same dog (still at 10 feet) if you’re next to a wall and pinned against it might be very different. Walking down your sidewalk and passing a calm, relaxed, polite dog with 3 feet between you might be totally doable. Walk that same sidewalk with a dog approaching that is stink eyeing your dog, tense, and pulling on the leash, and that 3 feet may cause WWWIII. Or, you might even walk by a dog that barks at your dog from across the street, and your dog may be totally cool with it. But if it’s that darn Akita (no offense Akita owners!!) that has been hassling your dog since he was a pup, it might be a very different outcome. 

The point is, the pressure your dog feels, and how he reacts is absolutely situational and contextual. You can’t expect your dog to have a one-size-fits-all reaction. He’s a complex emotional creature, and he’s going to determine the level of pressure he feels – and how he reacts – dependent upon lots of factors. (My hope with this post is to help you understand how all these factors can be in play, so that you’re aware and not bushwhacked (or confused) by them.)

As you’re working through reactivity issues, remember your dog is reacting to perceived pressure/danger/arousal, and your job is to navigate them as best you can in order for you both to be successful. 

Some tips:

-More space equals more comfort. Sometimes just 1, 2, or 3 feet of movement away from the trigger can alleviate the boil-over. 
-Dogs that your dog has developed a grudge with will be the toughest challenges.
-Dogs see and feel being trapped, so be keenly aware of not putting yourselves in no-escape, high-pressure spaces. 
-Dogs see/feel the intent, attitude, nastiness, posturing of other dogs, and act accordingly. 
-Dogs see whether owners have control and whether they are confident or freaked, and act accordingly. 

The ultimate goal is to get you and your dog to the very best space possible, so you’re both able to successfully navigate close encounters of the worst kind –  without having to avoid, use a football field length space to keep cool, and not have a melt down when the neighborhood bully starts barking. But as you work towards this goal, remember to utilize all the information above and be aware of all the possible factors in play so hopefully you and your dog can avoid the pressure cooker. 

CONNECT WITH US ON FacebookTwitterInstagramYouTube for more training insights, tips, our free weekly Q&A Saturday, and community interaction!

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